You can adjust the first stage travel to be very short and have a very light trigger. TX200 TRIGGER ADJUSTMENT TRIALwant to "take up the slack in the first stage" are you after a single stage(no movement in the trigger before the sear breaks)? I'm more or less in the trial and error camp myself but adjusting the trigger to a very llight, crisp single stage could be unsafe. Once that is done I can tighten the second stage screw so it will break or take over somewhere in the middle of the first stage, I should be set or close to it.? If I loosen the second stage screw to the point the first stage releases the sear and the first stage is adjusted to the very point that there is VERY little creep if any then my first stage should be as long as it should get?. Brad Troyers site has helped me a ton build up the confidence to try a fine tune that trigger, I'm just needing a little more "training". The wife is alittle upset but she'll get over it, maybe, hopefully.Īny help on the trigger adjustments would be very helpful for me at this point. right into the wood of my house near the soffet.Needless to say I increased the pull abit afterwards. After the first shot which seemed to be a little too light for me, I tried another (by habit I always keep my hand on the cocking rod)and as I hit the safety. I'm fine tuning the weight now, but unfortunetly my patio had to pay the price. Well after many tries to get the extra play out of the first stage but never had any luck.the first stage has no resistance at all (with about 1/4" of play in it) and I'd like to get that glass break at a predictable point. I wanted to try and get the slack out of the first stage and lighten my trigger pull while doing so. I have an Anschutz rifle with a trigger like that and had to adjust it to have more creep than I would like to be able to reliably detect that transition.I finally recieved my V-mach kit and went ahead and installed it earlier. I just need to do some calculations to make sure I don't take it to the point where it is hard to detect the transition from first to second stage. That should reduce second stage pull weight while still allowing enough first stage tension to permit the trigger to reset properly after an aborted release. Actually, since this is going to be a winter project and I still have access to some basic machine tools, I was thinking about making a new adjustable blade with a reduced distance from pivot to the second stage screw. Since there seems to be interest in the topic, I will report back what I find. This time I will tear it completely down and try to identify and correct whatever is causing the erratic behavior when second stage engagement is set low enough for what should be a light, crisp let off. I may have only removed the blade and lower lever. I am not sure how far into the trigger mechanism I was able to get the first time around. My other thought was to ream the housing and blade for a 1/8" pin, but the shim idea seemed to work so I left it at that. I wanted to press in a machined bushing, but there wasn't enough material in the trigger blade to allow for this. The pivot pins are 3 mm, and as I recall I had to shim the hole in the trigger blade using 0.0015 shim stock to obtain a consistent let off. I probably should have gone back to the dealer, but it is a little late now since I bought the gun some years ago. My best groups with the kit are only a little better than my best groups with the stock gun, but I no longer get the really bad groups I sometimes got before the kit was installed. I think the biggest improvement I have seen in the accuracy department is that fliers are greatly reduced. There is no spring twang, vibrations are eliminated, and recoil is less harsh, making for a gun that is a little easier to shoot accurately. The Vortek kit continues to smooth out as I shoot the gun, and definitely makes for a more pleasant gun to cock and shoot. But with springers as fussy as they are, you need all the help you can get. The way it is adjusted now the gun is shootable. Maybe a springer can never be that good, due to the higher forces involved. I guess I expected it to be like the trigger on my Daystate, which is super crisp. I might tear it down this winter and make sure the sear edges are dead sharp. I have to set enough engagement to avoid this problem. It is almost as if the sear edges have been rounded slightly so that the sear releases in stages instead of all at once. TX200 TRIGGER ADJUSTMENT SERIESIf second stage engagement is too small, you can feel a series of movements as the sear releases. I was also surprised at the behavior of the trigger on my TX. Having the wider blade might provide a lighter feeling trigger. I took a look at the Rowan adjustable blade.
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